Monthly Archives: February, 2013

Just rip it off — a review of German veterinary medicine

Following removal of the "claw."

Following removal of the “claw.”

Rip it off, take it off*, cut you off**, flip you off***. There seems to be an underlying haste in this country, or at least in Köln, underscored by our visits to the vet — which I mostly appreciate.

Rewind a few months: Kaya has some weird fetal-looking claw growing from one of her toes. We go to vet, where her doctor proceeds to tear it off, glove-less, roll it around in her fingers a few times, shrug, say “huh,” stick it on a slide, and tell me to call back in a few days with the results of the “biopsy.”  Only after this hasty maneuver does she put antibiotic ointment on the now-gushing hole in Kaya’s foot, wrap it in gauze, and send us off on our way. I was initially quite shocked, but Kaya is still with us.

Now, fast-forward a few months to last week. Breezy has a similarly strange growth on the lower part of her little peg-leg. So, we go to the vet, where the doctor — again, glove-less — squeezes it hard and … tears it off! Only this time she opts NOT to send it off to the lab because, “if it doesn’t grow back, it’s likely not cancer.” It has not grown back. Breezy also received an antibiotic shot and some friendly pats accompanied by, “Du bist ein gutes Mädchen!” (Repeat x 10, at least). (Translation: “You are a good girl!”)

Total cost per visit: Less than 30 Euros.

Compare this to the U.S., where we’d have to come back in a few days for a scheduled “surgical” procedure, complete with scalpels, rubber gloves, and all sorts of antiseptics, likely to the tune of $200-$300. What we get instead is German vet-the-ripper, but I’m surprisingly OK with it.

Yes, the dogs are my children, but they are also dogs. They roll in and ingest random animal feces. They inhale entire chicken wings. They swallow toy pigs and rubber chickens. They drink out of toilets and pick through the trash. They sniff butts. And, they walk around bare-pawed and naked even when it’s 20 degrees out and snowing.

And generally, the vets here are less expensive, more interested in natural treatments, and are not inclined to test every freckle (I swear, Breezy received a shot comprised of crushed maple leaves and pine bark to support her immune system one day).**** Plus, they are quite affectionate with the dogs (and speak English).

So, I’m not really sure what the moral of the story is. Perhaps that culture shock can sometimes just be shocking (hence the term), but in some cases, these other cultures might get it right (or at least not wrong). Therefore, I’m learning to accept.

Now, I’m still  not sure how to handle the aggressiveness while waiting in line, nor am I yet accustomed to the supersonic grocery scanners. I’ll get back to you.

Notes:

*Human doctors in Germany pretty much always want you to take your clothes off. When in doubt (or when you don’t understand what they’re saying), just get naked.

**Cars here, at least on our street, are prone to aggressive maneuvers, particularly around our small “roundabout” (or rotary, as we call them in MA).

***If you (as a hypothetical German) get cut off or beeped at by another person in a car/van/three-wheeled miniature truck, you are likely to then run down the street screaming at the offender with both middle fingers up. My neighbor is a great case study on this one. (The term likely might be a stretch since I haven’t conducted statistical research).

****Dr. Meg, you are exempt from the criticism of American vets. But you are probably also not reading this.

Bratislava: A nice little Eastern European day trip

Jeff and I went to Bratislava on a whim (sort of), and I’m glad we did. It’s just about an hour train ride from Vienna, and here’s a fun fact: Bratislava, Slovakia, and Vienna, Austria, are the two closest national capitals in the world (source: my husband, probably dictating from a Rick Steves book).

I loved the city. It’s small and walkable, mostly recovered from its communist past, with its wear and tear a bit more evident on a lot of buildings compared to its more “posh” neighbors. But, I like that because it feels a little bit more real to me. The city is not touristy, it is cheap (we paid about 40 Euros per night for our bed and breakfast), it is colorful (both the buildings and the apparent art scene), and the food is really good. Needless to say, I would recommend this as a day trip.  I’m sure it’s even more beautiful in the summer with a blue sky, green trees, and an active main square. Plus, it sounds like even during the heavier tourist season, it’s still not a major destination — so it may offer a nice break from all the camera-toting crazies.

As an aside, what is with tourists using iPads as cameras? The pictures are terrible! And PS, you look ridiculous.

Regardless, here’s a really good blog post from our favorite travel writer about the city. Worth a read: Blooming Bratislava.

And here are a few (well, several) pics from our day there.

Jeff and Hans Christian Andersen. I made them hold hands, so please don't make fun of Jeff.

Jeff and Hans Christian Andersen. I made them hold hands. Big hands, Hans.

Rubberneck. According to Bratislava's tourist website: "A unique Bratislava curiosity: no other city in the world has a statue emerging from a manhole. After Rubberneck had lost his head twice due to careless drivers city councillors decided to help him by erecting a road sign to warn drivers: another world-first..." (Source: http://visit.bratislava.sk/en/vismo/dokumenty2.asp?id_org=700014&id=1225&p1=3993).

Rubberneck. According to Bratislava’s tourist website: “A unique Bratislava curiosity: no other city in the world has a statue emerging from a manhole. After Rubberneck had lost his head twice due to careless drivers city councillors decided to help him by erecting a road sign to warn drivers: another world-first…” (Source: http://visit.bratislava.sk/en/vismo/dokumenty2.asp?id_org=700014&id=1225&p1=3993).

Jeff and Rubberneck.

Jeff and Rubberneck.

According to the city's tourism site: "This statue commemorates a unique figure in Bratislava's history. Not a statesmen, a sportsman or soldier: instead, the Schöner Naci, whose real name was Ignác Lamár, is remembered for being one of Bratislava's social institutions. Born in 1897, he was famous for wandering the streets of the city, elegant in morning suit and top hat. He would frequently doff his hat to the ladies he passed and offer them flowers or a song." (Source: http://visit.bratislava.sk/en/vismo/zobraz_dok.asp?id_org=700014&id_ktg=1037&p1=3993).

According to the city’s tourism site: “This statue commemorates a unique figure in Bratislava’s history. Not a statesmen, a sportsman or soldier: instead, the Schöner Naci, whose real name was Ignác Lamár, is remembered for being one of Bratislava’s social institutions. Born in 1897, he was famous for wandering the streets of the city, elegant in morning suit and top hat. He would frequently doff his hat to the ladies he passed and offer them flowers or a song.” (Source: http://visit.bratislava.sk/en/vismo/zobraz_dok.asp?id_org=700014&id_ktg=1037&p1=3993).

Napoleon's Solider statue in the town square.

Napoleon’s Solider statue in the town square.

Here he is again, with more of the square in the background. I'd love to see this place in the summer.

Here he is again, with more of the square in the background. I’d love to see this place in the summer.

Hey bear, raise the roof.

Hey bear, raise the roof.

Random celebrity grills.

Random celebrity grills.

A run-down church. I'm pretty sure the doors were locked.

A run-down church. I’m pretty sure the doors were locked.

I push for wine.

I push for wine.

Basically sums up my feelings about life.

Basically sums up my feelings about life.

Inspecting the beer for alcohol content.

Inspecting the beer for alcohol content.

Yum.

Yum.

A nice cozy lunch and a break from the cold rain.

A nice cozy lunch and a break from the cold rain.

Shot of Bratislava Castle from town.

Shot of Bratislava Castle from town. It was such a nice, sunny day.

A glimpse of St. Martin's Cathedral, the largest in Bratislava, and known for the coronation of many rulers, including Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of the Habsburg dynasty.

A glimpse of St. Martin’s Cathedral, the largest in Bratislava, known for the coronation of many rulers, including Maria Theresia — the only female ruler of the Habsburg dynasty.

Narrow roads.

Narrow roads.

Not entirely sure.

Not entirely sure.

A perfectly safe feeling rundown neighborhood.

A perfectly safe-feeling rundown neighborhood.

Every town has some ghetto.

Every town has a little ghetto.

LOVE this door. Slightly obsessed with European doorways.

LOVE this door. Slightly obsessed with European doorways.

Another random street. Love these captions, don't you? I just hate how the photos look so bare without any words to accompany them.

Another random street without a person in sight. Don’t you love these captions? I just hate how the photos look so bare without any words to accompany them.

Closing in on the Cathedral. Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived the first day, so we finally went inside Wednesday morning before we left. Unfortunately, no inside shots allowed!

Closing in on the Cathedral. Unfortunately,the doors were locked when we arrived the first day, so we finally went inside Wednesday morning before we left.

Do you have the key to my angelic, alien TV heart?

Do you have the key to my angelic, alien TV heart?

Jeff with alien tower in the background.

Jeff with alien tower in the background.

St. Martin's.

St. Martin’s.

UFO tower.

UFO tower.

After a 45-second elevator ride to the top of the UFO tower, you are offered a nice view from the bathroom.

After a 45-second elevator ride to the top of the UFO tower, you are offered a nice view from the bathroom.

You are also offered a nice view of the castle and cathedral. (This is before I realized I could leave the shutter open somewhat indefinitely. Oh well, still learning).

You are also offered a nice view of the castle and cathedral from the open-air lookout tower. (This shot was taken before I realized I could leave the shutter open on my camera somewhat indefinitely. Oh well, still learning. Plus, Jeff was getting a little tired of me dorking around with the settings. So, we began our journey to the castle.).

Atop the UFO tower.

Atop the UFO tower.

Heading across the bridge that connects the lookout tower to the old town. This divides the city, and supposedly, the highway will eventually be built underground. If it's anything like the Big Dig project in Boston, that could last a few generations.

Heading across the bridge that connects the UFO lookout tower to the old town and essentially divides the city down the middle. It is rumored that this highway will eventually be built as a tunnel underground. If it’s anything like the Big Dig in Boston, it might be a few generations before the project is completed.

Heading to the church...

Heading to the castle…

Met a nice dog along the way.

Met a nice dog along the way.

Getting closer.

Getting closer.

Closer.

Closer.

There!

There!

We had a wonderful and delicious dinner, but don't order the headcheese. Sounded good, as it was dressed with caramelized onions... not so much.

We had a wonderful and delicious dinner, but don’t recommend ordering the “headcheese.”  Sounded good, as it was dressed with caramelized onions… not so much.

A miniature outdoor "Van Gogh" exhibit.

A miniature outdoor “van Gogh” exhibit.

And a monument dedicated to the rack of a superhero. This one's for you, Jeff.

And a monument dedicated to the rack of a female superhero. This one’s for you, Jeff. (Actually, I haven’t a clue what this is. Strange for what appears to be a residential courtyard).

Vienna Day 3: Just the two of us. Gold tableware. And procrastination.

As it turns out, I’m much more interested in blogging than doing my real job, which is about to rear its ugly head and bite me in the ass. Oh well. Here’s what will likely be my final post for the working week. I know all 25 of our readers will be sitting at the edges of their seats.

The Habsburgs (based in Austria and then later Prague) ruled a ton of central/eastern Europe for several hundred years (you can read about them here), and on Monday, Jeff and I toured part of their enormous palace in Vienna, which is now broken up into a number of museums. We opted for the silver/china, Queen SiSi, and Royal Apartments package tour.

I seriously almost never get sick of seeing how the royal once lived. It seems utterly excessive, but I can’t help but wish these palaces would open a camp for adults, where you could dress in old royal garb, sleep in freezing cold canopy beds, and tinkle in a pot for a couple days. Okay, so a lot of it really wasn’t so glamorous, but it would be really cool to be transported back just for a few hours — even as a fly on one of those gilded walls.  I would, of course, also be interested in how the other 99.99999999 (“with a bar”) percent lived. I’d probably need to learn how to build a fire, but I could do it.

From the palace, we were finally able to get into the Stephansdom. Only took three tries! Fortunately, it is still a functioning church, unlike some we have toured.  It was beautiful, but I had a  hard time capturing a decent photo, even with my rad camera. I just was not feeling extremely patient.

We also walked inside the baroque St. Peter’s church. While I’m not a student of architecture, baroque to me has come to mean dripping with opulence, and also excessively … excessive. Certainly not humble, nor does it seem terribly holy to me.  Oh, well. What else would tourists do without these grand sites?

More pics from day three below!

Next, we were off to Bratislava, Slovakia.

Outside of Habsburg Palace.

Outside of Habsburg Palace.

Cold, bored horses.

Cold, bored horses.

Palace staircase.

Palace staircase.

Some insane gold tableware, Habsburg silver collection.

Some insane gold tableware, Habsburg silver collection.

Habsburg gold/silver collection.

Habsburg gold/silver collection.

Loved this plate. Mädchen mit Hund.

Loved this plate. Mädchen mit Hund.

Small church we visited prior to entering the palace.

Small church we visited prior to entering the palace.

Inside of small church. Even the seemingly insignificant looking churches from the outside are more impressive than anything we have in the US.

Inside of small church. Even the seemingly insignificant looking churches from the outside are more impressive than anything we have in the US.

Statue outside of palace.

Statue outside of palace.

Inside the baroque-style St. Peter's Church.

Inside the baroque-style St. Peter’s Church. Ridiculous.

Had some tiny sandwiches and tiny beers at Trzesniewski.

Had some tiny sandwiches at Trzesniewski.

So good.

So good.

And tiny beers. Pinky out!

And tiny beers. Pinky out!

After the tiny beers, we needed to use the public toilets.

After the tiny beers, we needed to use the public toilets.

And then we finally made it to Stephansdom, with the "Tupperware-colored" windows, as Rick Steves calls them.

And then we finally made it to Stephansdom, with the “Tupperware-colored” windows, as Rick Steves calls them.

Inside Stephansdom. I was having trouble getting a good shot of this church.

Inside Stephansdom. I was having trouble getting a good shot of this church. From here, we warmed up with some hot chocolate, coffee and cake. And that pretty much concludes Vienna!

 

 

Vienna Day 2: Like Moths to a Flame

On the second day, the three of us started our day with yogurt, gouda, and some coffee we made at the apartment we rented.

As an aside on the apartment … We used Vacation Rentals by Owner to find it, and I think this is a great way to go if you’re staying somewhere for a few days — it just feels more homey, and it provides the option for making your own breakfast, especially if you enjoy real food and not just air-filled croissants and pastries. It was a nice place, with a kitchen and big bathroom, master bedroom, and big living area that included two twin beds.  Aside from our flu-infested neighbors (who owned the place), and my mysterious case of the sniffles that appeared two days later, we were mostly satisfied.  However, the owner was a little stingy with the toilet paper — TWO ROLLS ONLY! Very German for a French dude. Also, we needed 4 keys to get into the place. It was like Fort Knox, and I’m almost positive that in the event of a fire, we would all roast — because you also need the keys to GET OUT. I don’t understand this European way. In Cologne, we have no smoke detectors installed in our apartment, and I could literally lock someone into our pad.

Back to our day: first stop was the Hundertwasserhaus, a modern-art residence that sort of reminded me a bit of Gaudi architecture in Barcelona. Here we “made” a bunch of photos (we were too early for the tour), and took a scenic walk — featuring much graffiti — along the river to our next stop.

Next stop — Karlskirche, where we actually climbed the stairway to heaven. This was a beautiful church and an icon often used to represent the city. While there was some construction and renovation within the church, we were able to take advantage of the scaffolding to get really close to the artwork on the inner part of the dome. Beauteous!

Next up, some penguins and the gilded Strauss statue, where it was difficult to get a decent photo of this famous violinist due to the recently unfettered tour group. You would have thought Strauss was handing out gold bullion. I take offense when large groups swarm monuments. I know you paid a lot for your seat on that bus, but please get out of the way.

Then, we finally made it inside the Opera House.  Here we learned the theater puts on about 70 (if memory serves me correctly) different shows per season, without ever performing the same show  on consecutive nights (they’re performed in threes, I think). So, if you’re visiting for several days, you can go for a few nights in a row and see something new each time. On the tour, we also had a chance to see the debutantes practicing for the upcoming Wiener ball, where admission is 250 Euros, dress code is formal/coattails, and box seats cost around 18,500 Euros. I will watch it on TV, thanks.

After some delicious goulash and the local pancake specialty, we attempted to get inside Stephansdom for the second time. But, mass was taking place AGAIN. So we climbed 300+ stairs to the top of one of the towers. It was actually a pretty disappointing climb for all the effort since the stairs simply deposit you into a gift shop with dirty windows, offering a sub-par view.

Anyway – here are some photos from the day.

Outside Hundertwasserhaus.

Outside Hundertwasserhaus.

Hundertwasserhaus.

Hundertwasserhaus.

Lindsay and her dog friend. I told her to bend over to get her in the shot, although it was actually unnecessary. I still think it's cute!

Lindsay and random dog. I told her to bend over to get her in the shot, although it was actually unnecessary. I still think it’s cute!

Dog patiently waiting for owner.

Dog patiently waiting for owner.

I love how Lindsay's outfit matches the graffiti in this picture!

I love how Lindsay’s outfit matches the graffiti in this picture!

Cool.

Cool.

A penguin fountain that apparently only serves as a fountain when it's above freezing.

A penguin fountain that apparently only serves as a fountain when it’s above freezing.

Like moths to a flame.

Like moths to a flame.

The beautiful Karlskirche.

The beautiful Karlskirche.

Stairway to heaven, Karlskirche.

Stairway to heaven.

Actually, it was more like an elevator to heaven for the majority of the climb. Lindsay only appears to be relaxed in this picture.

Actually, it was more like an elevator to heaven for the majority of the climb. Lindsay only appears to be relaxed in this picture.

Nice close-ups of the frescoes.

Nice close-ups of the frescoes.

Rejected. Back to Earth he goes.

Rejected. Back to Earth he goes.

An inside shot of the cathedral.

An inside shot of the cathedral.

Huge church doors.

Huge church doors.

Inside Vienna Opera House -- lobby/main stairway.

Inside Vienna Opera House — lobby/main stairway.

The auditorium.

The auditorium.

Opera house.

Opera house.

Inside opera house.

Inside opera house.

Attempting to get a shot of the debutantes practicing for the ball.

Attempting to get a shot of the debutantes practicing for the ball.

It took us a while to find a decent lunch stop since smoking is still allowed in most restaurants. In search of a non-smoking section, I found these ancient hieroglyphics of male/female anatomy in one cafe.

It took us a while to find a decent lunch stop since smoking is still allowed in most restaurants. In search of a non-smoking section, I found these ancient hieroglyphics of male/female anatomy.

Traditional goulash!

Traditional goulash and dumplings!

My protein-rich lunch.

My protein-rich lunch.

Feeling pleasantly plump.

Feeling pleasantly plump.

Stephansdom - take 2. A view from the gift shop at the top of 300 stairs.

Stephansdom – take 2. A view from the gift shop at the top of 300 stairs.

Stephansplatz. I love how the Dom reflects in the windows of this modern building.

Stephansplatz. I love how the Dom reflects in the windows of this modern building.

Famous public restrooms. Jeff and I actually used them on day 3.

Famous public restrooms. Jeff and I actually used them on day 3.

Of course, we ended the night with ...cake!

Of course, we ended the night with … cake! Rick told us to go here.

Treats.

Treats.

Vienna Day 1: The Good Life

We just returned last night from a week in Vienna, Bratislava, and Prague. I will start with a recap of Vienna — day 1. I actually wrote this in notepad on the train from Vienna to Bratislava, so let’s blame any typos on that …

Vienna feels a lot like Paris to me with old, unique, and heavily decorated buildings everywhere you turn, lots of cafés, and wide streets (implemented to help prevent enemies from barricading the main thoroughfares — a best practice from the Parisians, actually).

Our good friend Lindsay was able to join us for a couple of days, as she was traveling to Europe for a wind energy conference (coincidentally, I type this as we pass a bunch of wind turbines on our train to Bratislava. Maybe they’re GE’s!).

Jeff and I arrived last Friday — Jeff from Budapest following a work trip, and I from Cologne (where else?). Lindsay joined us Saturday morning after a red-eye.

On our first day, we attempted and failed to time a tour of the Vienna Opera House, making our first real major stop the famous Cafe Sacher for sachertorte (pic below) and delicious, overpriced coffee (we girls got ours with egg rum). At least we have our priorities straight — coffee and chocolate! Jeff ordered some Turkish blend, which to me looked more like coffee-flavored sludge than a beverage, but it was appropriate due to some Turkish influence in Vienna.

From here, we went to the Schönbrunn Palace, the summer home of the royal Hapsburg family. The “Rococo”-style (baroque) palace has more than 1,400 rooms. We toured only 50, which was plenty. Audio guide in hand, we learned a lot of interesting facts that I don’t really remember. Having seen lots of residences/palaces in Europe (Versailles, Brühl, the Residence in Munich, Marksburg Castle, many in Copenhagen, etc), I have to say that I really liked the pace of this tour. It is here we learned of the Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as “SiSi”), with her knee-length hair, who lived a tragic life that ended with her assassination by a file while visiting Italy. More on her later.

After visiting the “gardens,” which isn’t much to see on a freezing, rainy winter day (we used our imaginations), we went –shivering and wet — for some lunch.  Aside from the bad chianti we were charged for, the pizza was huge and delicious, and I was able to dry my feet on the heater I was essentially sitting on. Did I mention my elf boots have sprung a leak?

From here we went to Stephansdom for the FIRST time, with our Rick Steve’s audio guide in hand. Stephansdom is Austria’s largest cathedral and literally sits in the center of Vienna. It is also “sehr alt” — built in the 12th century (groundbreaking in 1137, to be precise).

At this point in our journey, it had stopped raining, but the wind had picked up. The inside of the church was closed for mass (well, technically open for mass, but closed to camera-toting tourists), but we were able to at least complete the outside portion of Rick Steves’ audio tour (FYI, Rick has free downloadable tours for many cities and sites in Europe. Despite his often flowery speech, the tours are awesome!). From here, we walked /trained home, stopping for some chocolate on the way. Vienna, like almost ever other city in Europe (it seems), is known for sweets. This makes Jeff very happy.

Here are some day 1 photos! Enjoy. More on day 2 tomorrow.

Welcome, Lindsay! And a little view of our apartment rental.

Welcome, Lindsay. And a little view of our apartment rental.

Vienna town hall.

Vienna town hall.

Jeff and Lindsay, the tour guides!

Jeff and Lindsay, the tour guides.

Candid!

Candid!

Some nice scenery on our walk to the Opera House!

Vienna Parliament. Nice scenery on our walk to the Opera House.

Looking surprised by something!

Looking surprised by something!

Listening to the Rick Steves' walking tour of Vienna.

Listening to the Rick Steves’ walking tour of Vienna outside of the Opera House. Unfortunately, no tour today.

Cafe Sacher. That is some strong coffee!

Cafe Sacher. That is some strong Turkish coffee!

Sacher torte, and delightful coffee-rum beverage.

Sacher torte and delightful coffee-rum beverage.

Wet tour of the gardens.

Wet tour of the gardens. Pic from Jeff’s phone.

Hiking up to Schönbrunn Palace gardens.

Hiking up big hill to the top of the Schönbrunn Palace gardens. (Pic from Jeff’s phone, so it’s a little grainy).

Inside palace in the only location we were allowed to take pictures.

Inside palace in the only location we were allowed to take pictures.

Huge building in Schönbrunn Palace gardens. We were tempted by the overpriced cafe, but resisted.

Beautiful building in Schönbrunn Palace gardens. We were tempted by the overpriced (and warm) cafe inside, but resisted.

Cute umbrella purchased for the day.

Cute umbrella purchased for the day.

View of palace from the hill. It was well worth the hike.

View of palace from the hill. It was well worth the hike.

I'm  not sure that's enough, Lindsay.

I’m not sure that’s enough, Lindsay.

Outside of Stephansdom, Vienna.

Outside of Stephansdom, Vienna.

Another shot of the massive, gothic cathedral.

Another shot of the massive, gothic cathedral.

The one inside shot we could get during mass, and our first attempt of an inside tour.

The one inside shot we could get during mass — and our first attempt of an inside tour.

Late-night candy stop!

Late-night candy stop!