Monthly Archives: May, 2012

The narrow roads of Napoli. And some x-rated art.

I bet it was the narrow roads part of the headline that captured your attention, eh?

By now you’ve probably figured out that I’m in Italy, again, but this time with the hubs.

We started our weeklong tour Sunday with an early flight to Naples. Arrived at a darling bed and breakfast — which actually serves breakfast, unlike the B&Bs in Copenhagen — finally by 11 or so in the morning.

Our host served us delicious (and densely strong) coffee.

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Like the coffee, the city is a little gritty and intense. I love it.

It doesn’t try or pretend to be something it isn’t, and I certainly wouldn’t call it “touristy.” The food is cheap and delicious (3 Euro for a medium pizza, 1 Euro per glass vino). The roads are narrow, bustling and a bit dangerous. Red lights are hardly a suggestion. If there appears to be room or time for a car, scooter or bus, just go. Same goes for people. There is very little English among the locals. The streets are littered with garbage, and many of the monuments with graffiti, yet it is beautiful. Every day life, and the people, are where it’s at.

Here are just a few quick snaps from our day in Naples.

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(Unfortunately, I cannot figure out captions on the iPad WordPress app).

More to come, but I hope you enjoy the sampling of pictures. I end with Jeff tapping his watch, because as he did yesterday — hurrying me along from the statue of Dante to the Archeological museum, where we saw the pornographic Pompeiian art — he will certainly do again as we near time for dinner.

Ciao ciao now from Sorrento.

Very weekendy weekends

Travel is nice, but so is staying in Cologne and just doing ‘normal’ stuff.

By normal, I mean, happy hours, friends over for dinner, cooking lots of yummy food, long and lazy breakfasts (notice the food theme?), walks with the dogs, bike rides. Enjoying LIFE at a slightly less frenetic pace.  Of course, it’s still slightly more interesting when you can’t read road signs, still don’t have the Fahrenheit-to-Celsius conversion nailed down, and nothing’s open past 2 p.m. on Saturday to solve your flat-bike-tire issues.

Regardless, these past two weekends have been quite nice.

Germans and Lasagna: Last weekend we did not much. Had our authentic German couple friends (well, half German) over for dinner on Friday. We cooked lasagna and sat on our floor eating around the coffee table because we still don’t have a dinner table and chairs (table this week; chairs in JUNE!).  We’ve heard getting settled can take about 6 months. I believe it, especially for those of us without cars.

Inspired by my recent Italian adventure, I have to say the Gshwankelkamp lasagna was pretty good. I couldn’t seem to get the sauce right and then realized it was because the wine I added was slightly nasty when sober.  The evening before — when it was bottle number 2 — it tasted fine, so I kept carelessly adding it to the sauce. BAD idea. Anyway, the recipe I made was a derivative of this, if you feel like experiencing it personally. But, I never really follow anything to the T. World’s “best” lasagna, according to AllRecipes.com: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/worlds-best-lasagna/. I would disagree, but here are my slight modifications that make it better:

  • On the sauce, well, there’s no sweet Italian sausage that I can find in Germany (and when I asked the butcher, he thought I was asking if he speaks Italian, so who knows), but since Germans like their pig, I just added ground pork, and to make it “sweet,” I added some extra fennel, paprika, salt, pepper, a little honey (sugar will do) and some red pepper flakes (I prefer spicy sausage to sweet anyway). I probably doubled the onion, garlic and spices in the sauce, as well, and I also added a fair amount of red wine and some balsamic vinegar, which I think makes everything taste better.
  • On the ricotta filling, I added some minced garlic, probably 3/4-1 cup of Parmesan cheese (because you can never have enough cheese), two eggs and a couple tablespoons of basil. This recipe calls for straight ricotta, and you probably don’t have to add anything to it (especially the ricotta here, which is more like butter than cheese), but my mom is Italian, and she always adds parm, herbs, and at least an egg to her filling.

So, essentially, I didn’t use the recipe for much except cooking time and how to assemble the layers. Whatever.

Feeling French on Saturday: On Saturday, I was feeling French (not really) so made crepes out of the Joy of Cooking cookbook, which is the only one of about 100 cookbooks I brought with me. I figured it had most of the basics. And thank goodness for FoodNetwork.com. My main inspiration for Saturday’s breakfast: I really wanted to use the leftover ricotta as filling (with berries). So, we did kind of a crepe sampler — one with just butter, cinnamon and sugar, one with ricotta and berries, one with brie and honey, and one with just some weird cheese I was trying to get rid of. The winner: brie and honey. Here’s a pic of the crepe. Patience is the key ingredient on these bad boys. This is not a 30-min breakfast.

Crepe making. A lesson in patience.

Flat Tire and a Bad Day for Bikes: Later in the day, Jeff and I biked to meet a friend for lunch (more Italian) and then stopped to get some fenders and additional bike accessories. On the way home, I thought it would be fun to see how fast I was peddling by attempting to set off the radar on our street. About three standing and aggressive leg “strokes” (?) in, my pedal came off, and I had a near-death “stumble” (exaggerating a little bit since I didn’t really even fall to the ground). I still have a huge purple/yellow bruise and welt on my calf, and for a while, it appeared that I actually had two calf muscles.  Braving the bike again, we took another ride around our hood later in the day, found the soccer stadium, and then about 10 minutes from home, I got a flat tire. Nothing’s open on Saturday after 2, so no more biking for me that weekend. Probably a good thing.

Biergarten Sunday: Sunday we took the dogs for a walk, strolling to a nearby biergarten (well, probably 2 km each way). Kaya pulled the entire way, and patient Jeff pretended to have a good time.

Here’s Beeze at the biergarten.

This past weekend was also loads of fun and included “Derby de Mayo” and our first German concert, but more on that later. This post is already way over the readable limit!

Ciao!